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In Pursuit of Maximum Flavor - Aki Kamozawa and Alex Talbot of Ideas in Food – Levittown, PA
Aki Kamozawa and Alex Talbot, the couple surging the culinary industry forward one blog post at a time, turned up the flavor knob to 11 on the ICC Main Stage. The duo presented on a variety of topics, including how to achieve the intensity of dry aging without moisture loss and expensive equipment by holding beef in a layer of funky blue cheese or cured ham skin. They discussed their new favorite beef fat monté (made with beef fat, beef jus, and xanthan gum) that they use to sauce plates and poach proteins. They also showcased the benefits of lightly scoring and flash freezing meat before deep frying as an incredibly effective way of achieving a crusty surface, tender meat (ice crystals help break down cell walls), and rare center—before bringing the meat to temperature in a CVap.
Standing on a Camrack for a little bump in height, Kamozawa broke down a boneless Australian rib-eye into the deckle and center cut, which she then split into two separate steaks. “The rib-eye is an interesting cut of meat,” said Talbot. “It has fat, sinew, and gristle. If you slice and grill it, it has tons of waste. But there’s so much potential.” To help reduce waste and tap into said potential, Talbot discussed how they pressure cook a stock of sinew, cracklings, trim, and even silver skin. When pressure cooked, the silver skin breaks down, and they say it has more flavor than bones. “When you use meat and bones in stock, you’re a gelatin factory. When you’re pressure cooking skin and cracklings, you’re chasing delicious,” said Talbot.
Talbot rendered the rib-eye’s trimmed fat and infused it with vadouvan curry, pepperoni, and ground onions (because it’s faster than chopping), later adding shrimp shells and Madeira- and bourbon-marinated scallops to make an umami-forward sauce, which he imparted with smoky flavor inside the Beech Stone Hearth Oven from Jade Range. Talbot and Kamozawa finished the demo with beef tartare with kimchi juice (stolen from Bryan Voltaggio’s demo), assembled on top of ham skin instead of a plate—so they wouldn’t miss their chance at achieving maximum flavor.
Standing on a Camrack for a little bump in height, Kamozawa broke down a boneless Australian rib-eye into the deckle and center cut, which she then split into two separate steaks. “The rib-eye is an interesting cut of meat,” said Talbot. “It has fat, sinew, and gristle. If you slice and grill it, it has tons of waste. But there’s so much potential.” To help reduce waste and tap into said potential, Talbot discussed how they pressure cook a stock of sinew, cracklings, trim, and even silver skin. When pressure cooked, the silver skin breaks down, and they say it has more flavor than bones. “When you use meat and bones in stock, you’re a gelatin factory. When you’re pressure cooking skin and cracklings, you’re chasing delicious,” said Talbot.
Talbot rendered the rib-eye’s trimmed fat and infused it with vadouvan curry, pepperoni, and ground onions (because it’s faster than chopping), later adding shrimp shells and Madeira- and bourbon-marinated scallops to make an umami-forward sauce, which he imparted with smoky flavor inside the Beech Stone Hearth Oven from Jade Range. Talbot and Kamozawa finished the demo with beef tartare with kimchi juice (stolen from Bryan Voltaggio’s demo), assembled on top of ham skin instead of a plate—so they wouldn’t miss their chance at achieving maximum flavor.
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StarChefs.com™, the magazine for culinary insiders, has been serving the restaurant industry since 1995. StarChefs.com’s original culinary content is driven by in-person tastings and interviews across the world. Its mission is to catalyze culinary professionals’...